Deo Tibba Expedition
Mt. Deo Tibba Expedition
Mt. Deo Tibba is a beautiful 6001m. High peak situated in the Pir Panjal range of mountains in the Manali region of Himachal Pradesh. It is located at Duhangan Nallah and Malana glacier. Deo Tibba consists of an extensive ice cap, the actual climb being a snow hump accessible on the edge of the ice plateau is reached. It also has the beauty of being just over the 6000 m. high mark which is a great achievement for any climber. According to the Hindu religion Deo Tibba is the assembly site of the Gods, where Indra the lord of all Gods and also the God of war and weather carries out a meeting from his throne. As to the mythology the Gods sit on top of the dome shaped peak. Mt. Deo Tibba expedition is suitable for professional trekkers and climbers who have ample knowledge of snow, ice and mountaineering techniques.
The road head for the trek to base is Jagatsukh village just 6 kms far from Manali. From jagatsukh to khanol by taxi and then trek starts stopping at chhika in an hour. After chhika we hike up leaving tree line behind till Pandu ropa. After Pandu ropa we reach seri in 4-5 hours. Seri is a huge pasture ground surrounded by the peaks. Seri to tenta is about 3-4 hours. It is a 3 or 4 day approach walk to base camp depending on where base camp is established. One possibility for base camp is located near a glacier lake called “Chandra Tal” close to the main glacier that falls off the south-east face of Deo Tibba. This is at an altitude of 4500m/14850ft. It is quite a high base camp and depending on the rate of acclimatization, the base camp may be set lower at around 4070m/13430ft. This will mean the camp at the Col that is spoken about below becomes Camp II with Camp I at 4500m/14850ft. Moving on to Camp One at Duangan Col (Duangan Pass) the route crosses the Deo Tibba Glacier takes a steep slope of between 45 and 55 degrees for around 300 m. The climbing is mixed on snow, rock and ice to cover this portion of the climb to the Col (pass). For safe travel ropes will need to be fixed for most of this section. After reaching Duhangan Col. Camp One can be set at the Col, or a little further on at the base of some more technical ground known as the Pitton Ridge. The Col is generally preferred but also depends on the general conditions at the time.
Many climbers make a direct ascent from this high camp to the summit via the Pitton Ridge which faces east. The ridge is quite steep and again requires fixed rope for safe travel for around 150 m. Soon after climbing the rock of the Pitton Ridge you move onto the snow field. From this point on, Deo Tibba and its neighbour Indrasan are visible. For climbers moving at a good pace it is only an additional 2 hours from this point onwards following the left side of the upper glacier. Because of Deo Tibba’s giant snow dome covering it, is a relatively easy final ascent with few crevasses to negotiate. The slope steepens to around 50 degrees just below the summit for about 50 m. The summit itself is quite a wide expanse able to accommodate all climbers. After summit get back to the camp II, camp I and to base camp. Next day descend back to Chhika. Camp for a night. Reach Khanool in an hour, drive to Jagatsukh or to Manali by taxi.
DAY 1: Arrival at Manali (6,750 ft)
Reach Manali by 8 AM & drive to your hotel in Shuru which is approx 5-6 Kms from Manali Main Bus Stand.
DAY 2 : Rest / Acclimatization day in Manali
Spend the day in Manali for trying out your personal mountaineering equipment like Snow boots, crampons, etc. You can utilize this day for local sightseeing in and around Manali. Overnight Stay in Hotel.
DAY 3: Day 3 : Manali to Chhikka (10,416 ft)
Drive up to Khanol (7,217 ft) from Manali where the trek starts from the Duhangan hydro project. Trek along the Nala, cross it and ascend steadily through the forest for 2-3 hours, after which it gives way to the pastures of Chhika. Chhika has a few huts and temples for devotees to stay.
DAY 4 : Chhikka to Seri (12,139 ft)
The day’s trek starts with a moderate ascent through thick forest. As we go higher the forest thins out gradually and gives way to Birch trees and finally bushes and high altitude grasslands. We walk along the Nala all day passing the freshwater spring at Panduropa and Dudu Patthar until we reach the expansive grasslands at Seri with the Tenta cliffs towering to the left and the waterfalls crashing on the rocks below. We camp at the flatlands for the night and witness a blanket of stars open up above us.
DAY 5: Seri to Chota Chandratal [Base Camp] (14,698 ft)
Cross the flatlands and ford the stream to start climbing a serpentine trail to reach the top of the Tenta cliffs in around two hours. Walk along the Nala and cross it again. Start climbing up the boulder field. An hour of walking up along a ridge brings us to Tenta (14,107 ft) at the base of the glacier. Hike up loose scree and steep slopes for another two hours to reach Chota Chandratal. This will be our base camp.
Day 06: Rest / Acclimatization day at Chota Chandratal BC
Rest day at base camp. Spend the day going for acclimatization walks and practicing climbing techniques on snow and ice on the glacier.
Day 07: Load ferry to Camp 1 (16,896 ft)
Climb up the gully to Duhangan col at 5150 m. Leave loads at a suitable campsite and return to base camp for the night.
Day 08: Chota Chandratal BC – Camp 1 (16,896 ft)
The entire team moves to Camp 1. Decide on further route to be taken and possible location for summit camp.
Meals. Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner
Day 09: Load ferry to Summit Camp (18,044 ft)
Load ferry to summit camp at altitude approx. 5500m. From Camp 1, two routes appear to be possible. The route taken by the first summit team follows the southeast (Piton) ridge to a stiff snow ramp leading to another ridge connecting the upper neve slopes. Summit camp can be set on these slopes at approx. 5550 m. The other possible route which has been more commonly used by recent expeditions follows a mixed snow-ice gully to the southeast of Piton ridge. Leave loads at the summit camp site and return to camp 1.
Day 10: Camp 1 – Summit Camp (18,044 m)
The entire team moves to the summit camp. Decide on the route to be taken for the summit push.
Day 11: Summit Attempt
The summit push begins with an alpine start at 2 am. The route to summit is moderately angled mixed snow and ice. Return to Camp 1 for the night.
Day 12: Camp 1 – Base Camp (14,698 ft)
The team moves back to base camp today.
Day 13: Base Camp – Manali (6,750 ft) via Khanol (7,217 ft)
Retrace your steps back to Khanol. Drive back to Manali for your onward journey.
Day 14: Reserve Day
Retrace your steps back to Khanol. Drive back to Manali for your onward journey.
Day 15: Reserve Day
This day will be utilised in case of bad weather or other delays.
- Highly advanced, Professional & certified mountaineering (Instructor/guide) from Himalaya Destination.
- Skilled local Guide who has ample knowledge of the route.
- Vegetarian meals on the Climbing. (Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner)
- Cooks/Helper and other requisite staff.
- HAF/LAF/Porters/mules for carrying common equipments (like rations/tents/utensils/and Central climbing Equipment)
- Equipments – Tents on sharing basis / Sleeping bags / Sleeping Mattress/ Sleeping bag Inner
- During Trek & Expedition we will provide you Dome/Alpine/High Altitude tents on twin sharing basis. Camping mattresses, kitchen tent, dining tent, camping stool etc would be provided.
- Personal Porters for carrying Climber’s backpacks
- Air fare
- Any charges for carrying still/video cameras etc.
- Personal expenses like tips, telephone calls, laundry, etc.
- Group Gears for climbing e.g. rope, pitons, snow bars, crabs etc
- Individual Climbing Gears and clothing; special individual mountain diet if any
Inner Line Permit.
- Personal insurance or cost of emergency evacuation
- Purchases of personal natures (like Alcohol, Soft drink, mineral water bottles/bottled or canned beverages/chocolates/dry fruits etc)
- Food to/from the trailhead.
- IMF Permissions and Registration.
- Any costs arising out of unforeseen circumstances like landslides, road blocks, bad weather, etc.
- Travel insurance.
- GST 5%.
Price On Request
14 Night – 15 Days
Locations: - Manali Himachal Pradesh
Grade: - Moderate
Accommodation: - Hotel/Guesthouse, Campsite
Season: - Mid June to October
Highest Altitude: - 6001 m./ 19680 ft.
Food:- On trek – All meals included
Style of trip - Climbing